Mt. Shivling Expedition

Expedition Overview
The Mt. Shivling Expedition is a technical alpine-style ascent of one of the most iconic peaks in the Indian Himalayas, often called the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas". This challenging 30-day climb requires advanced mountaineering skills, with routes involving steep ice, rock, and mixed terrain.
Max Altitude
6,543m (21,467ft)
Duration
30 days
Difficulty
Extreme (Alpine AD+/D)
Group Size
4-6 climbers
Expedition Itinerary
Arrival in Delhi
Team briefing, gear check, last-minute shopping.
Drive to Uttarkashi
Scenic 10-12hr drive via Himalayan foothills.
Acclimatization in Uttarkashi
Light hikes and final preparations.
Drive to Gangotri
Journey to Gangotri (3,100m), temple visit.
Trek to Bhojwasa
14km trek along Bhagirathi River.
Trek to Tapovan
Glacier crossing, steep climb to meadows.
Acclimatization at Tapovan
Rest day with short hikes to Meru Peak base.
Establish Base Camp (4,800m)
Shift gear to BC near Gangotri Glacier.
Load Ferry to ABC (5,200m)
Carry supplies to Advanced Base Camp; acclimatization rotations.
Set Up Camp I (5,800m)
Fix ropes through mixed rock/ice sections.
Establish Camp II (6,200m)
Push to high camp via SW Ridge/North Face.
Summit Push Window
Climb to summit (6,543m); return to Camp II.
Reserve Days
Buffer for weather or extended summit attempts.
Descend to Tapovan
Clean-up and return to meadows.
Trek to Gangotri
Long descent via Bhojwasa.
Drive to Dehradun
Return to valley.
Debrief in Dehradun
Expedition review and celebrations.
Departure
Transfer to airport.
Expedition Highlights
Technical alpine climbing (AD+/D, 5.9 rock, 60° ice)
Sacred peak near Gangotri Glacier
Two route options: SW Ridge or North Face
Pristine Tapovan meadows acclimatization
Panoramic views of Bhagirathi Massif
Participation Requirements
- Prior 6,000m+ summit experience
- Advanced ice/rock climbing skills
- Fitness: 8+ hrs of load carry at altitude
- Medical certificate (AMS/health check)
What's Included
- All permits (IMF, forest, Uttarakhand)
- Expert IFMGA guides & Sherpa support
- High-altitude tents & group gear
- All meals (nutritious high-calorie)
- Satellite comms & medical kits
- Porters/mules for load carry
- Delhi-Gangotri-Delhi transfers
What's Not Included
- Personal climbing gear (ice axes, harness, etc.)
- Travel insurance (mandatory)
- Delhi hotel nights (Day 1/30)
- Tips for staff (~10% recommended)
- Emergency evacuation costs
Expedition Gallery



